Modern architecture is one of the most controversial aspects of the modern city. Cities like Lisbon I think struggle in this regard because they are filled with such ancient treasures that monstrosities like the CCB can only seem like incongruous intrusions when they're landed next to such beautiful buildings as the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos.
For those not in know here's a comparison:
Now don't get me wrong, they're both beautiful buildings, just not next to each other. I would've said that the monastery could've probably done with some screen to protect it from the views of the river which seem to be exclusively semi-industrial (the people of Almada are so lucky because they get views of Lisbon). That said the CCB can't be completely derided as it's a great arts space. The complex houses exhibition spaces (both for art and business), theatre space and music rooms as well as the obligatory cafe and shop selling arty goods. So even if it does like a cleaned up World War 2 bunker complex it's a deeply interesting one.
The main exhibition has changed somewhat from when S first saw it and was an interesting collection of modern art. I won't say it was a great exhibition but it was certainly thought provoking. There was an interesting Bacon and some good Paula Rego's but a mundane Warhol along with some pedestrian video installations. By the last few galleries I was beginning to think that it really needed an editor as there was no control over the quality and some of the painting were not deserving of display. There were a couple of smaller galleries downstairs, one with a rather tedious take on Goya and the other (which was the highlight for me) an interesting constructivist exhibition featuring works by Joaquín Torres García and Maria Helena Vieira da Silva but after this I was very tired and in real need of a sit down. My art stamina is not what it once was.
For the sit down we decided to head over Pastéis de Belém and have a couple pastéis de nata and a coffee for me. The shop here, next to the monastery, is supposed to sell the best pastéis in Lisbon. That's attested by the sheer size of the place. On my previous visit to the place I did remark that it's the largest public lavatory I'd ever eaten a cake in but mockery doesn't go down well here. They take their cakes very seriously. I personally prefer other pastéis made in a little cafe in Estoril and S has yet another favourite which she has promised to take me to, I find the ones here if anything a little greasy and the pastry too thin but that's just my taste and the coachloads of tourists here seem to enjoy them. It's a place very much on most trourists' itinerary.
On our way to and fro the pastéis we did happen to catch rather a sad and shameful sight. Next to the Pastelaria was the second Starbucks to open in Portugal. This had rather swiftly followed the first which had opened in September in some distant retail park but this was was proudly on display and the saddest sight was that it was well patronised. There is absolutely no need for these chains in Portugal and one of my favourite things about the country was that (despite their obsession with malls) they have a strong and proud culture of supporting independant businesses, especially cafes, restaurants and bars in which excellent coffee, cakes and light meals are cheap. My block alone has a Pastelaria on each corner, my favourite being Namur.
There is some hope that this is a passing phase, McDonalds and Burger King exist here but certainly not to the exclusion of all others and they're seen as an exception rather than the ubiquitous presence in the UK.
So as this is the last evening before S returns to work and I can still get some attention in my direction I will leave this until later...
Até já.
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