Sunday 4 January 2009

Survival of the sales part 2...

Yesterday was the day S and I braved downtown. Downtown Lisbon is lovely in moderation but as with any large cities Saturdays are when the streets get horribly crowded and the shops are impossible. We were feeling brave after the success of yesterday but my cold was getting worse by the minute to the point where all I could concern myself with was where the next tissue was coming from.

S and I are very lucky where we live because it's busy enough to always feel like there's something happening - we're a minute away from a great theatre cum gallery, there are at least 5 cinemas within walking distance as well as very good restaurants and 3 or 4 shopping centres, but it never feels too crowded. (except when we're looking for a parking space and there's a play on). We also have the metro at the end of our street which we took to Baixa.

I'll write more later about the Lisbon metro as it's more than deserving of a post of its own but by the time we got to Baixa the streets were full and it was already feeling a bit oppressive. The shops here are largely the same as the ones in the shopping centre but S had it in mind to dig out a pair of boots she'd been lusting after, as it turns out the shop didn't have them but I did end up getting a hoodie for around the flat as well as a pair of warm slippers because it's so damn cold at the moment.

I also managed to get a SIM card for my mobile so I finally have a Portuguese mobile number. Not that I really know anyone here other than S and her circle (and a couple of others) It will however save me a small fortune in receiving calls from the UK as well as sending messages there, it's still expensive but doesn't compare with what my old provider was charging me. We also tried to set up a landline at the Vodafone shop but the assitant didn't seem to know what she was talking about. We're thinking it's easier to arrange online or at least by ourselves rather than have to fix the meddlings of some woman.

I had hoped to go the the Nespresso shop whilst I was downtown but here the curious Portuguese solution to queueing came in useful. In many of the busier shops (mobile phone shops are particularly fond of this) they operate the system people in the UK are familiar with from the deli counter or Argos, you take a number and wait for it for it to show on the screen. Perhaps I don't go shopping in the right shops in the UK but it was a real curiosity when I came here. I just didn't understand why people didn't just queue up. One possible explaination came when I tried to buy coffee and the number that came out was over 200 places behind what was on the screen. I could've quite easily wandered the streets for an hour and come and taken my place again in the shop but instead I decided to leave it for another day and resort to the odd roadside bica now and then.

We couldn't stay downtown too long, not that we really wanted to anyway - I think it has a bit of a mournful, empty feeling when the shops have closed, as we had another dinner party to go to, this time at J & R's. We did however stop for a quick drink at this cafe that sells plastic shoes and vintage kaftans and other dresses of curtain-like material. It was only noticable for possibly the worst pastel de nata I have had in Lisbon.

Returning to the flat before dinner I was sure to fill myself up on medication and we went well prepared with packets of tissues in every pocket and up every sleeve. Despite the cold I was really looking forward to going and having the opportunity to have a nosey around a friend's flat and to experience J's cooking which I have been told many times before is fantastic. I'm always being to told I should try J's bacalhau.

Their flat is lovely and charming, I think just the right mixture between his interests (walls filled with DVDs and a guitar) and her touches (a giant cityscape of New York, a city that R is far from enamoured by, almost entirely covers one wall). The flat is fairly modern and stylish, in a large and imposing block not very far from mine and S's. We were the first to arrive as we were dining that night with S & R who are always bringing up the rear in these types of gathering.*

We entered to a typical sight - R(J) watching the football. His team, Sporting, were playing so there was small football chat which is hard for me at the moment. There being only ever 3 teams here that challenge for the title (and usually not even all 3), Sporting, Benfica and Porto people tend to follow one of the big three but they also follow English football quite closely too. I've been keeping my eye on Man United but here I think it's pretty much expected of me to follow Benfica, that is if I ever want to be able to talk to my father-in-law again. Unfortunately as yet I'm not to knowledgable about Portuguese football other than Benfica are currently leading the Liga.

S & R(S) soon arrived and we started the meal which was an excellent Bacalhau com Natas. My first time trying this popular dish. It was delicious but I felt a bit samey, I thought S's bacalhau dish from New Years Eve was more interesting. Saying that though J's was very well done and I loved the crispy bit at the top.

For desert we had a Torta de laranja and a coconut one that I forget the name of, all of which was followed by whiskey and baileys and good conversation. We then played on the Wii for a bit, a few quizes which were in English, giving me a bit of an advantage and then R(S) showing just how game he was. We made him get into the hardest yoga positions we could find.

We went home full and happy.

Today it's back to the parents' for a lazy Sunday lunch and more mauling from the cat.

*I've just realised that I've got 2 Rs in this piece so I will differentiate it will be R(J) and R(S) for now.

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